February 22, 2013 at 8:01 pm #95449
Purchased new 2012-2013 Rossi S2 ski in January. Waxed them well over a dozen times warm wax and half dozen blue and some green wax. After an hour or shorter of skiing in any condition the bases are dry and light grey. I’ve prepared enough race skis to know I didn’t do anything differently this time. I called the shop in the Twin Cities where I bought them and an employee told me I didn’t iron enough warm wax into the base. More than a dozen times and after every time I use them and it still isn’t enough? This didn’t sound right so I called the other Rossi dealer in the Twin Cities and their ski tuner tells me I have to much warm wax in the based and it is bleeding out and smearing the base causing the light grey (WTF). He said I need more cold wax in the base. I’m I missing something after preparing skis for 25 years. Has anyone on this site bought or heard of someone else with similar problems with this years Rossi S2 bases. My hope is the bases were rushed through production and sealed through poor grinding versus some horribly wrong batch of base material. Oddly enough after applying some green wax yesterday I brushed the bases out and they have a stained look from the cold wax which I can’t remove.February 24, 2013 at 8:21 am #95556
I have Rossi skis, though not the 12-13 model, last year’s model (11-12) so I can’t really comment. However, I would suggest contacting the Rossi Rep in the US and talk to them about it. They are super helpful and might even warranty your skis if they feel its a defect. Number for Rossi is 435-252-3300.February 26, 2013 at 4:04 pm #95711
Can you share how your skis run? Fast or slow, or do they start fast and quickly slow down after a few kms?
I had a similar problem with an older pair of Atomic World Cup Cold skis. Not only did the bases get gray fast, they also ran very slow, even after a good wax and structure! After some research I learned about “ski hardening” and re-prepped the skis with this process. Afterward I found my skis to be significantly faster in most conditions and snow temperatures. After the hardening, I did notice a few dark shinny spots, which did make me worry that I may have overheated the base in those spots … However the skis seem to hold wax very well and consistently run fast over the entire duration of my skis. Since the ski runs well, I’m not that concerned about the spots.February 27, 2013 at 6:28 pm #95837
Thanks for the replies. I read several years ago about hardening the base. It was in An Atomic Shop Service Manual. It mentioned any ski would never be fast unless cold wax was ironed. Hence the process of warm waxes and cold waxes which have been applied to the base. Yes I agree with you it takes care when using the blue and especially the green waxes. Also when I plastic scrap the base feels very hard and raspy right from the first wax I applied. I don’t want to give up these skis because they have a great feel and also I spent big bucks on them.February 28, 2013 at 12:27 am #95850
Hmmm, first I’d be curious to hear what Rossi says about the base? Here’s what I would do …
Since you mentioned that the base is “raspy” and could possibly be sealed, I’d suggest a very careful hand tune. You’ll need a good steel and/or brass brush, a very sharp metal scraper, grey fibertex and white fibertext, and LF 6 wax.
First brush the ski (tip to tail) with your steel and/or brass brush. If you own both, start with the more aggressive brush and follow it with the finer one. This will help to open any sealed areas of the base and brush up any loose base material, like p-tex micro hairs.
Next here’s the tricky part, lightly scrape the base with your metal scraper. The goal is to take off a very very fine layer of the base — essentially you are finely shaving it. Your goal is to shave off the micro hairs and remove any rough spots. If any of the base was sealed from an overaggressive stone grind, this should help to remove that layer. If you haven’t used a steel scraper you may want to practice on your rock skis before tackling your new skis. Since this is s light scape, this action shouldn’t be too risky, but I’d still practice before doing this on the Rossis.
Next using a solid wood block (or the back of a larger brush) wrap the gray fibertext tightly around it. Then do several quick passes back and forth on the base. Then repeat this using the fine white fibertext. This should further remove any micro hairs and open any sealed base material.
I usually like to finish this tune with a coat of LF 6. This aids in keep the base hard and the subsequent normal scraping of this wax should also help to remove any additional micro hairs.March 19, 2013 at 2:07 pm #97013
My current year S2’s did the exact same thing. I sent them in to Nordic Ultratune to get them ground, and they said that I burnt them. That was my first burnt skis in 20 years of waxing, so I was surprised but accepted it. The skis are excellent now, and super fast (and hold wax very well).
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