January 17, 2012 at 4:38 pm #89641
My Swix World Cup iron finally died after ten years and worked like a champ. Last week I purchased the Wintersteiger Digital iron for $59, which was scary to use, so I bought little black Swix iron for $39. The Wintersteiger besides not having any usable surface to melt the center groove on a xc ski base also would spike or surge when it would heat. There would be no heat and than bam the wax would smoke within seconds when the ready light turned on. It was a challenge to get 3 passes without frying the base or smoking the wax. The little black Swix iron simply will not smooth out any wax from CH8 down to CH6. I think both irons are inferior because there is really nothing substantial about the aluminum base plate. The plates simply will not hold a constant even heat. Even set at 140C the little Swix iron will not smooth out CH6 with 3 passes. I have a Toko iron on order for $74. Hopefully this one will work. What iron works for you?January 17, 2012 at 8:45 pm #91044
I use the Star iron, but I’m guessing that any of the thick base ones with digital readout will do (Toko, Swix, Holmenkol, etc.).January 18, 2012 at 1:17 am #91045
I like my Toko T12 digital, the best iron I have owned.
However, FasterSkier says that there are much better choices:
I love having a digital iron so I can get the right temperature for any wax in one try. My T12 also stays very close to the desired temperature, which is a huge improvement over the mechanical thermostats in previous irons. This means no more smoking.January 18, 2012 at 3:09 am #91046
Love my Star, much better than my old digital Swix.
One of my teammates found a comparo report somewhere on line that rates the Star first, then the current Toko digital, both much better than the expensive thick-plate Swix.
Mr. Mayer (sp?) of Fast Wax told me this weekend that all irons of the same model will have different temps at the same settings, at least a little.
RandyJanuary 18, 2012 at 11:54 am #91047
Yes I’ve noticed this as well with variations in the dial which sets the temp. Sometimes I have to adjust it way above the temperature setting recommended by the each wax company. With the little black Swix iron I had to pass the plate over sand paper to remove burrs which were pulling up base materials. For $39 I can’t expect much more from this iron.January 18, 2012 at 12:53 pm #91048
The best Iron on the market for price and function without a doubt is the TOKO T14. I don’t think you can find a better digital iron for the same price point. You can find them at most stores. Here gear west has it on sale.January 18, 2012 at 4:03 pm #91049
If you really want to wax like a pro throw the temp concept out the window. Crank that sumnabich up and adjust by moving the iron faster down the ski. Not only will you end up putting less heat into the ski because you aren’t moving so slowly but you will wax faster and get better results.January 18, 2012 at 6:09 pm #91050
I wrote earlier that you can get the iron temperature right on a digital iron in one try. I didn’t mean that the temperature is accurate, however.
If 130C on the display is just right for Toko LF red once, it will be right every day. That doesn’t mean that the iron is actually at 130C, it might be 140C or 120C.
Some of the waxing pros do run very high temperatures and lots of smoke, but as I race myself, I try to avoid inhaling smoke on race days. I use a temperature that melts the wax quickly, but doesn’t smoke. The suggested temperature on the wax label is just a starting point for me.January 18, 2012 at 7:42 pm #91051
It won’t smoke much if you keep it clean and just because you see the fumes doesn’t mean they aren’t there when you don’t see them. If you are worried about this you should wear a mask all of the time.
Not some of the waxing pros, all of the real waxing prosJanuary 21, 2012 at 12:34 pm #91052
I started with a Swix T74 iron, when I was unhappy with that I bought a Toko iron (last generation 600W/1200W iron). The Toko iron was an improvement, but still didn’t seem to hold a consistent heat and struggled with powders that require high temperature. It also smoked a lot no matter what temperature it was at, which still seems to be an issue with Toko irons based on their recommendations to set them face down on a paper towel to stop smoking.
I now have a Start iron and it is leaps and bounds better than what I was using. It is one of the 180 deg versions.
Coincidentally the below video was just posted and may be helpful.January 21, 2012 at 11:39 pm #91053
Sometimes the dial will become loose, so to speak, so that the temp showing in the digital doesn’t move with the dial as it did when it was new. I’ve heard the solution is to open up the iron and tighten, tho I haven’t done it yet myself.January 26, 2012 at 9:27 pm #91054
Tognar Toolworks has a pretty good selection of waxing irons (Toko, Swix and no-name):
Tognar also carries 230v irons with Euro (round) pugs.February 8, 2012 at 1:54 am #91055
John Forrest TomlinsonParticipant
I’ve got an economy Swix iron and also the Star iron. Waxing in a warm room, with warm skis, and medium or soft waxes both are fine. But for waxing fluoros or hard waxes or, or in cold places, the Star is much much better – faster and easier to control.
In a couple weeks I’m travelling with a guy who has the Swix T71 World Cup Digital Wax Iron which looks even more amazing.March 13, 2012 at 4:38 pm #91056
My roommate at the World Masters bought a Toko T14 230 V, which worked great for most of the week, then quit.
Why aren’t the good irons available in dual-voltage models, like my wife’s hair dryer or a boot dryer? To make those of us who travel abroad buy two? Nah, that couldn’t be it. . . .
RandyMarch 14, 2012 at 6:47 am #91057
My Toko T8 230v held up for the duration Worlds. It even took one drop from table to floor when someone got tangled in the tangle of extention and waxing iron cords. I just had to pop the plastic disk that overed the on-off LED indicators back on.
On a separate note, someone at the Worlds fried a Toko 120v iron trying to use a voltage converter. Apparently it did not drop the voltage down correctly.
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