In the years before high altitude glacier-skiing became popular, Ushuaia, Argentina, was an occasional summer sparring grounds of international skiers and biathletes. Now, though the cross-country skiing remains some of the best in the Southern Hemisphere, the area is relatively unknown to the outside world. After all, who would believe that cross country skiing could possibly exist in Argentina—a land known for its polo, cattle and gauchos? Though even more obscure a sport in Argentina than in the United States, cross-country skiing does, in fact, exist and even manages to thrive in a small tight-knit community at the tip of South America.
Ushuaia is famous for its status as the southern-most town in the world (any further and you might fall off) and for its trout fishing and hiking. During the summer months tourists are as populous as the penguins. However, in the long dark winter Tierra del Fuego becomes relatively barren of visitors and converts into an island that only a skier could truly love.
For cross-country skiers two main training options exist. The first, Francisco Jerman, only 5 kilometers from the town center and with 15-20 kilometers of trail, contains the most challenging terrain and is approved for international competition. From its perch atop the Martial glacier the Jerman trail also provides spectacular overlooks onto the Beagle Channel, which can only really compare with one other place in the Americas: the Coastal Trail in Anchorage, Alaska.
. Here, perhaps, the greatest frustration confronting skiers is the constant temptation to leave the groomed trails and explore the valleys. Other than the lone road, that connects these ski centers there is little more in these mountains of Tierra del Fuego than virgin forest and miles of skiing. Old logging roads and dog-sled trails carve up the beech forest, providing many avenues for exploration. Back-country skiers have only the occasional guanaco (llama) to compete with for first tracks down any of the slopes. For cross-country skiers the spring (late August, September) crust skiing can be paradise. Popular destinations include two over-night cabins, as well as Laguna Esmeralda, a well-hidden lake, a two-hour ski from the roadside.<br />
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Luis and the Giró’s passion extends to the handful of families that dedicate themselves to cross country skiing and compose the two ski clubs in Ushuaia, Ernesto Krund and Club Andino. Most weekends, these clubs hold informal races at one of the local ski centers. However, the one that counts for bragging rights for the rest of the year–and probably the only one that starts on time–is the Marcha Blanca (held on August 16th this year). It typically draws a crowd of nearly six-hundred citizen skiers. However, of these, only about twenty are serious racers and probably only ten have ever skied outside of Ushuaia. The 21 kilometer course is FIS approved, and winds its way between six of the local ski centers. Later in August the Argentine National Championships are held on the Francisco Jerman trails. Here, foreign skiers are welcomed for the added competition they bring. To receive an invitation they need do nothing more than show up at the course the day of the race. Though the Argentines joke about how they are often only able to beat los hungaros (the Hungarians) at international competitions and have been known to hydrate themselves with cervezas between training sessions they take pride in being able outlast foreigners at both parties and ski races. They are also well known for their hospitality and Yankees typically have little trouble getting invited into skiers’ homes or out on the town, especially if they speak a few words of Spanish.
Though lacking some of the organization and much of the infrastructure of their North American cousins, Argentina has its own particular laid-back latin style of cross-country skiing. To ski here one must be willing to occasionally improvise training based on the conditions or the grooming. However, for college or masters skiers not ready to deal with the altitude of a glacier and hoping to have some fun, the atmosphere makes the ideal summer vacation, providing end of the world adventure, parties, and that most important element often lacking in summer activities—snow.
Exchange Rate: Because of the current state of the Argentine economy, you will receive a favorable return of 2.90 pesos on every U.S. dollar—meaning you can eat lunch or dinner, including a glass of wine or bottle beer, for under six dollars.
Where to Stay: One of the primary issues confronting skiers is the dearth of accommodations outside of Ushuaia and near the valley trails. However, in recent years several of the winter recreation centers have built additions to their lodges. Here, in cabins such as Nunatak or at Las cotorras, living is simple—often with only a wood stove or open fire for heat and a sleeping bag for a blanket. However, after a hard day of training not much more is necessary to relax.
Cost of Travel: The total round-trip cost is about the same as to Europe: $900 from New York. Total travel time is 20 hours, though most of it is spent asleep on the overnight portion of the trip, from New York to Buenos Aires.
For more info: The Giró family has been trying to promote cross-country skiing and tourism in the Ushuaia for many years and I recommend contacting them at antartur@tierradelfuego.org.ar for further information.
This Summer
There are two new options in 2003 for trips down to Ushuaia. Tierra
del Fuego Nordic Ski Exchange (TFNSE) offers a trip August 8-18, 2003 with
full logistics coverage, including special grooming. For those who are
looking for some coaching, The Subaru Factory Team is running one of their
Academies in concert with the TFNSE trip where Factory Team athletes will
coach participants on-snow for the duration of the trip. TFNSE info is
<http://www.skifire.com, 303.881.9890, while information on Subaru Factory
Team Academies is at <http://nsavage.com, 877.764.4338 toll free.
