In the years before high altitude glacier-skiing became popular, Ushuaia, Argentina, was an occasional summer sparring grounds of international skiers and biathletes. Now, though the cross-country skiing remains some of the best in the Southern Hemisphere, the area is relatively unknown to the outside world. After all, who would believe that cross country skiing could possibly exist in Argentina—a land known for its polo, cattle and gauchos? Though even more obscure a sport in Argentina than in the United States, cross-country skiing does, in fact, exist and even manages to thrive in a small tight-knit community at the tip of South America.
Ushuaia is famous for its status as the southern-most town in the world (any further and you might fall off) and for its trout fishing and hiking. During the summer months tourists are as populous as the penguins. However, in the long dark winter Tierra del Fuego becomes relatively barren of visitors and converts into an island that only a skier could truly love.
For cross-country skiers two main training options exist. The first, Francisco Jerman, only 5 kilometers from the town center and with 15-20 kilometers of trail, contains the most challenging terrain and is approved for international competition. From its perch atop the Martial glacier the Jerman trail also provides spectacular overlooks onto the Beagle Channel, which can only really compare with one other place in the Americas: the Coastal Trail in Anchorage, Alaska.
. Here, perhaps, the greatest frustration confronting skiers is the constant temptation to leave the groomed trails and explore the valleys. Other than the lone road, that connects these ski centers there is little more in these mountains of Tierra del Fuego than virgin forest and miles of skiing. Old logging roads and dog-sled trails carve up the beech forest, providing many avenues for exploration. Back-country skiers have only the occasional guanaco (llama) to compete with for first tracks down any of the slopes. For cross-country skiers the spring (late August, September) crust skiing can be paradise. Popular destinations include two over-night cabins, as well as Laguna Esmeralda, a well-hidden lake, a two-hour ski from the roadside.<br />
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