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FasterSkierFebruary 19, 2008 FasterSkierFebruary 19, 2008. Using a piece of Swix Fibertex (T0266) with the wax remover works great to scrub the kick zone free of old wax. Let skis dry.</p>
<p>On the glide zones it is best to clean by using the traditional “hot scrape method”. Take Swix BP99, which requires a very low iron temperature of 110C, and melt this onto the base. Iron in with 2-3 passes down the length of the ski with each pass taking approximately 7-10 seconds. While wax is still molten, use a stiff (3mm) plastic Swix wax scraper (T0823D) and scrape wax off the base. You can usually see the dirt and particles in this scraped up wax. Continue to do this 2 or 3 times until you can not see any more dirt coming up. Let skis cool for 10 minutes, and then brush out the base using the Swix Fine Steel Brush (T1088B pro oval) or (T0192NB rectangular). Brush 7-10 strokes. You can feel when the brush becomes free and no more wax is left in the base structure. Keep brushes clean by using your vacuum on the bristles. The extra fine filaments of the Fine Steel Brush are incomparable in performance. They are extremely durable and do not break down like an old nylon brush or too soft of a brush such as copper or soft bronze. You are able to not only clean the wax out of the structure, you are also able to open up the pores of the base that may have been inadvertently burned or sealed by using too hot of an iron or lingering in one spot too long. As I recently mentioned in my article on Cold Weather Waxing Tips, coaches or those doing several pairs of skis may really enjoy the new Steel Brush (T01790 pro oval or T0179R rectangular size) for this first step brushing method.</p>
<p>Now that bases are clean, it is time to saturate the pores of the glide zones with wax. Our goal here is to fill the pores with wax that will provide excellent bonding to our race layers that we will apply last. What wax we put on at this point is very important. We want the wax to be as close in hardness as possible that will not allow snow crystals or wax to dig into the wax and pull or tear the wax molecules out of the base. In most cases, we want a “hard” wax for this. In very cold temperatures it is common to use Swix CH4. In warmer conditions, Swix has developed the next generation base preparation wax, Swix MB77. This wax is to be used as a base preparation wax in the most common temperatures people frequently ski. MB77 is a fantastic base preparation wax because it contains a moly additive whose main function is to repel dirt and act as a dry lubricant reducing friction in dirty and drier conditions. This is the same moly additive found in our extremely versatile 100% Cera FC1 and FC2 Turbo waxes. The MB77 also contains a significant amount of flouro which does three things. One, it is extremely hydrophobic (repels water), two, the flouro molecules provide a great bonding base for the high or 100% race layer flouros to be added as semi final or final topcoats. (When heat is applied, these flouro molecules bond to each other proving a very durable topcoat or overlayer.) Three, the flouro makes the base wax very durable.</p>
<p>The numbers “77” in MB77 represent its hardness scale in the Swix glide wax line up with 4's and 6's being cold and 8, 10's being warm waxes. Due to the moly's ability to provide lubrication in drier snow, we are able to run the MB77 when temps call for 6's and also to have success at higher elevations we find typical of the Rockies etc. Give the glide base a good saturation of Swix MB77. Let cool, scrape and brush out with the Fine Steel Brush. If you have neglected your skis since the last Birkie, doing this step twice is not a bad idea!</p>
<p>Structure of the ski base is now our next consideration. In nearly all cases except extremely cold conditions, you should have structure in the ski base. Refer to the following points and chart and apply structure with the legendary simple Swix T401 Hand “Riller” structure tool, or, if you have questions ask your local ski shop to apply structure to your base. (TheT405 is a structure tool used more by World Cup Service, large teams and shops and is quite expensive). It looks like we will be using a .25mm or .50mm rill based on temperature, humidity and snow type at this year's Birkebeiner. </p>
<p><b>Practical guidelines when setting structure with hand held tools</b></p>
<p>Use of the different imprint blades will vary with the underlying stone grind. If the base has a fine structure it can be taken to “medium” by using the coarse imprint blade. In this way you will be able to make a fine stone grind fit “medium” conditions. However, it is not possible to make a coarse stone grind 'fine' with a 'fine' blade.</p>
<p>In skating, a medium/coarse or coarse structure is rarely used due to varying conditions in a skating slope and the negative effect this will give on “feeling” (which has to do with the resistance in pushing the ski forward). In skating, a fine or medium structure is preferred as the standard; these structures will then be modified with the use of the structure/imprint tools “on top of” the underlying stone grind. Be aware of the amount of pressure when applying the hand made structure. In skating it is most important to apply light pressure on the front half of the ski. A harder pressure will be applied from the binding and backwards. This has shown to give an optimal mix of “good glide” and “free feel.”</p>
<p>For classic skis, use even pressure, but preferably lighter pressure on the front part.<br />
Manually produced structure should be set after waxing, and after application of Cera F and brushing. After setting the structure, brush once more with the Blue Nylon brush.</p>
<p>Always apply manual structures on race day since the intended effect can be reduced over time.</p>
<p>If two or more imprint blades are used in combination, always start by using the coarser blade.</p>
<p>In more humid / wet conditions, it is normal to use more pressure and to make 2-3 passes with the imprint device to facilitate better drainage of moisture.</p>
<p>The T405 has a broader range in temperature and snow conditions versus the T401. The T405 is also perhaps more “gentle” with the ski base which allows change / removal of structure pattern more easily.</p>
<p>Never clean your structuring blades (or steels) with a metal brush. Use a soft toothbrush.</p>
<p>Use the following chart to make decisions on which imprint structure to use:</p>
<p><b>Guidelines for the use of T405 and T401:</b> </p>
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