The toughest part about nordic skiing in Antarctica comes the moment you turn around to ski back. It's when you realize that, after 40 minutes of effortless V2-ing, you've been skiing with a gale force tail wind the entire time. And now you have to ski back INTO it in order to get home. Duh.
, a coffee shop, library, weight room, crafts room, fitness gym, climbing wall, bowling alley, parties, parties and more parties. All indoor activities, I noted. I asked him if I could bring my skis. With a frown, he slid my employment contract across the table for me to sign.</p>
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McMurdo Station, Antarctica (summer pop. 1200) is located on Ross Island and is the US Antarctic Program's base of operations. The more infamous South Pole Station lays 900 miles inland but plays a less critical role in the whole scheme of science. The town of McMurdo resembles a cross between a mining camp and a military installation. This is an outpost for scientists though, not miners, and contract workers like myself looking for a little adventure while making a quick buck. Surprisingly, over 40 percent of McMurdo's population is female and, of which is commonly noted, the odds are good but the goods are odd. I'm sure that saying goes both ways.
 by a margin of 10-1. Although they're supposedly smarter, scientists seem to lack any genetic predisposition towards common sense. Scientists are always getting lost or losing mittens, and are the butt of many jokes here. But we, as laboring minions, are all-too-often reminded that our presence here is all about science. </p>
<p>As to be expected, outdoor recreation in Antarctica is not for the feint of heart. As a nordic skier you quickly learn some very practical lessons such as: (1) Swix doesn't make a glide wax for -50F, (2) you really can V2 while wearing 5 layers of clothing, a neck gaiter, two hats, goggles and big fuzzy mittens, and (3) a dropped ear bag is a lost ear bag.</p>
<p>For obvious reasons, wandering around outside of town is strictly forbidden. Skiing is possible along a few designated routes over frozen sea ice. This sea ice is well over 15 feet thick (so we're told) and covered with a layer of windblown snow. Grooming occurs when a large tracked vehicle, such as a CAT Challenger or cargo delta, cuts a swath along a supposedly safe flagged route. The grooming gets even better after multiple snow machines zoom back and forth over these tracks. That's about as good as it gets, unfortunately.<br />
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Weather seems to be the primary factor as to whether or not you are able to ski each day. During the all-too-often stormy weather, I stay in touch with my nordic sensibilities by repeatedly waxing my skis, re-reading Pete Vordenberg's book, Momentum, or surfing the FasterSkier website. It might seem that I spend more time waxing than skiing in Antarctica (which I probably do). But while applying those collective layers of CH4, I find myself dreaming fondly of those freshly groomed trails, tree-lined and rolling through gentle terrain… Without any wind, of course.
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