No One Lives Here,” They Said. Then 10,000 Plus Fans Showed Up in Lake Placid

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Lake Placid, N.Y. — The French coaches had questions. Two days before racing began at Mount Van Hoevenberg, they were standing in Saranac Lake — 55 degrees, windy, woods in every direction — wondering who exactly was going to show up to watch cross-country skiing in the middle of the Adirondacks.

By Saturday, an estimated — rumored to be fair — 14,000 people had answered.

Today, as Jessie Diggins lines up for the 20-kilometer mass start freestyle, the final race of her career, this corner of upstate New York will try to top itself one more time.

A Weekend That Kept Building

The first sign that Lake Placid was going to be different came Friday, and it wasn’t entirely smooth. With an initial estimate of 10,000 fans on Friday, the transportation system to and from Van Hoevenberg buckled under the demand. Some fans waited over two hours to get to the venue.

Diggins finished fifth and clinched her fourth career overall Crystal Globe — her third in a row. She told reporters afterward that the crowd was so loud she couldn’t hear herself breathe. Johannes Høsflot Klæbo returned to win the men’s 10k, leading a Norwegian sweep of the top five.

ORDA adjusted to the shuttle demand on the fly, pulling in school buses from across the region to shuttle people up the mountain, and by the time Saturday got started, things felt even bigger at the venue. The sprint course was packed — 14,000 fans by some estimates — as Sweden’s Linn Svahn dominated the women’s sprint and Maja Dahlqvist locked up the sprint Crystal Globe. And Federico Pellegrino, in his own final World Cup sprint, scripted the perfect ending with a masterful win — a retirement farewell that carried echoes of what’s coming today for Diggins.

“Only Holmenkollen and Minneapolis”

U.S. Ski Team head coach Matt Whitcomb has been on the World Cup circuit for years. He said the only events throughout his career that have ever rivaled the atmosphere here this weekend in Lake Placid are the Holmenkollen in Oslo — the sport’s grand prix if you will — and Minneapolis two years ago.

That’s the company Lake Placid is keeping. And for those who were in Minneapolis, the comparison lands. Diggins said earlier this week that Minneapolis was the most special day of her career.

“It was the most I’ve ever cried,” she said at Wednesday’s press conference. “I got to race in front of some of my grandparents who haven’t been able to travel overseas. They got to see me race for the very first time in a World Cup. And having so many friends and family and getting to share the thing that I love doing with them — that is the most incredible thing ever.”

She paused, then added: “I think this weekend’s probably going to join that.”

The Scene on the Ground

What the numbers don’t capture is the texture. Young kids running around the venue in their NNF fan bibs — the ones with athletes’ faces printed on them — clutching Sharpies, hoping to meet their heroes. Fans who drove and flew from Vermont, from Alaska, from Minnesota, who planned vacations around this weekend months ago. The school buses that became part of the story, ferrying the faithful up the mountain road when the original plan couldn’t hold.

This is what U.S. cross-country skiing looks like when it gets the stage. Not a packed NFL stadium or a sellout basketball arena — but thousands of people standing in the woods, screaming themselves hoarse for athletes from every country, because they love this sport and they know how rare these weekends are.

One More Race

Diggins has spent this weekend doing exactly what she said she would — being present, soaking it in, putting on a show. She clinched the Crystal Globe on Friday. She raced the sprint on Saturday. And now there’s one more.

At Wednesday’s press conference, she talked about the way her mindset around suffering has evolved — how she’s learned to see the pain cave not as something to dread but as confirmation that she’s doing what she came to do.

“This is what 100 percent feels like,” she said. “And sometimes this is what it looks like, and it’s some ugly scene, but that’s okay. It just has to be all heart and all effort, and that’s what I have to give in that moment.”

She also made one thing clear about the team she’s leaving behind: “The team is going to be just fine without me. And I feel like that’s how I know I did my job.”

Then, with a smile: “I’m excited to be a fan on the other side of the fence and get to cheer for them.”

Today, in just ten minutes, Jessie Diggins will clip into her bindings for the last time as a World Cup racer. The 20-kilometer Mass Start Freestyle.

And based on everything this weekend has shown us, “no one” will be watching.

 

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